Prisoner release - US-run prisons in Iraq let prisoners go when they determine there’s no more useful information that can be beaten out of them. The people let go today had been locked up for between one and four years and now return to a totally reshaped area of Iraq under the supervision of a sheikh they’ve never heard of. There’s not a lot of opportunity for them to commit major crimes in Jurf as Sahkr, especially with a brutal sonofabitch like Sheikh Sabah al-Janabi keeping tabs on them, but a couple of them look pretty determined to try.
Shiites continue to kill each other with great zeal down the road a bit. We’re regularly rolling out main battle tanks again, for the first time in months. It’s been two years since I was a gun loader/photoguy on a tank crew, and I’m really, really looking forward to doing it again. The sensation of riding in a 70-ton M1A1 Abrams is not of movement upon the earth, but that of the earth rotating to meet you.
Setting up a new patrol base in the ruins of a destroyed Iraqi air force installation. The place is totally abandoned - only the odd Bedouin passes through occasionally, with a dozen goats in tow.
A lot of building materials got trucked in, but the air force decided to airdrop 40 giant pallets of barrier kits, food and plywood. So in addition to unloading the trucks, we retrieved thousands of pounds of this crap, strewn across the desert and tangled in parachute cord and chicken wire. So efficient. When the parachutes started dropping in, like great mutant jellyfish, I saw the goat herder jumping up and down, shouting at the sky.
The dark photos were taken by moonlight at an observation point on top of a bunker at midnight, two km from the patrol base. Quarter moon, twenty seconds at f/5.6, ISO 1600.
The only other machine of this scale I’ve seen up close was in Kuwait - an oil refinery the size of Manhattan and lit up twice as bright. In Iskandariyah, sixty percent of Iraq’s electricity is churned into existence at the Korean power plant, a complex of thundering smokestacks and shrieking rusted pipes 25 miles south of Baghdad along the Euphrates River.
Built in the 1980s, bombed to rubble in 1991, rebuilt 10 years later and still limping along like the old Hyundai motor that it is. Though it will burn pretty much anything you feed it, the plant currently burns raw crude, pumped straight out of the country’s south and trucked up in bullet-riddled tankers to the monster’s gaping maw.
In the control room, a galaxy of blinking, bleeping meters relay information to the blue-suited Iraqi technicians, but very little can actually be controlled from this room. To make any substantial adjustments to the creature’s temperament takes wrenches and ropes, fire and oil and surely blood. They say the steam can leak out of the pipes so hot you can’t see it, and so fast it will slice you apart like a light saber.
Outside, the unrefined oil is thick on the ground, built up along the curbs and covering every door handle and light switch. The lazy green river cools the great screaming turbines, and the carp and catfish gather above the warm outflow pipes.
In Musayyib on a Friday listening to the fiery sermons belting at machinegun pace from the loudspeakers atop the Hussaniyah Mosque. Flags of the Jaysh al-Mehdi, the Mehdi Army, fly above the lieutenant in the dark alley taking notes on the sermon’s content. It’s a virulently anti-U.S. and anti-Iraqi government message flooding the crowded markets at 110 decibels, but the people on the street couldn’t have been friendlier. I am utterly filled with falafel and dolmeh.
